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Aunt Norma's
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Pantry Moths are Back Again!!
Posted on 15 March, 2016 at 16:57 |
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With the weather warming up, you can expect to start seeing pantry moths again. Often times, the eggs can go into a holding period, so to speak, from last season and not hatch again until the weather starts to warm up. Like many animals and insects, pantry moths can inherently know when spring is coming, and when it's time to start reproducing. If you have spent the winter months moth-free, you may think that you are done with the pests forever, only to be shocked and horrified when you start seeing these pesky moths come spring. |
Treat Brown Recluse Spider Bites Naturally at Home
Posted on 1 March, 2015 at 17:48 |
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TREAT BROWN RECLUSE BITES WITH ACTIVATED CHARCOAL In the last post- I discussed the dangers of the Brown Recluse Spider, and their sudden prevalence in Southern California… in particular Brown Recluse Spiders in Huntington Beach. Aside from using Aunt Norma’s Go away! Spider Powder to get rid of an infestation and protect your house from the dangerous beasties, I wanted to also discuss an effective and safe “home remedy” to handle first aid and emergency treatment if, in fact, you are unlucky enough to get bitten. Aunt Norma’s Go Away! Spider Powder can be sprinkled anywhere you don’t want spiders. It not only repels spiders, but will kill any creepy crawly that comes into contact with it within 48 hours. As discussed in the previous conversation on Brown Recluse Spiders, their bite can be very dangerous and requires immediate medical attention- especially in the very young and very old. The bites are particularly dangerous because it kills the surrounding tissue and can spread indefinitely (as seen in the disgusting photo below...if you want to ruin your dinner, Google "Brown Recluse Spider Bite"...) I have personally known two people who have been bitten by the foreboding Brown Recluse, and they had very different experiences, based on how they first treated the bite. My one friend, let’s call him “Mike” (mainly b/c his name is Mike, haha) encountered a brown recluse spider while at work in an old house in Southern California. Not realizing he had been bitten, he did nothing and was confused as he began to feel ill and watched his leg swell to twice it’s normal size. Finally- after experiencing some nausea and dizziness, he thought perhaps he was having an allergic reaction to something and went to the ER. Long story shorter, he spent over a week in the hospital and had serious complications that left him with lifelong health issues and a really horrific scar. They basically had to use a drug so strong to treat the effects of the bite that it ruined his thyroid and he will take thyroid medicine for the rest of his life. The other friend was unpacking moving boxes in Virginia and saw the spider, was bitten, and took a photo of it and Googled it to see if he could figure out what type of spider it was. When he realized that he had, in fact, been bitten by the dangerous Brown Recluse, he wasn’t sure what to do, until his girlfriend told him the first thing they should do was to place a poultice of charcoal on the bite. (thank GOD for a resourceful girlfriend!) She intended for this to be an emergency first aid while they drove to the hospital, but they both quickly realized that the charcoal was immediately helping the bite and was bringing the swelling down. They decided to take a “wait and see” approach, and within a few hours knew that the charcoal was absorbing the toxins and they determined to skip the ER. Today, THIS friend has only a scar the size of a cigarette burn, and swears by the powers of charcoal! Now, you all know that I love a good ole’ natural home remedy…especially one that uses simple, inexpensive ingredients and has no side effects… so of course I’ve been using charcoal for years to treat everything from food poisoning to pimples. I’m happy to say that I’ve never had to treat a Brown Recluse spider bite, but I wanted to pass this remedy on for those of you who are dealing with this pest. First, let me tell you a little bit about charcoal and why/ how it works on toxins. Charcoal has a safety record that goes back 3500 years (compare that to the 10-30 year clinical trials of today’s most popular “designer” drugs…). The simplest concept of charcoal that comes to mind is the remains of wood burned after a campfire has gone out. This is basically dehydrated wood, but charcoal can come from a variety of sources such as animal bones, or coal, but for medicinal purposes it comes from plant-based sources such as hardwood, bamboo, coconut, or peat. But what is left after the fire goes out is pure carbon. What makes the structure of charcoal unique is it's physical structure of folds and cracks the hide a tremendous surface area, which can electrostatically bind a large amount of chemicals and toxins. By subjecting this raw charcoal to the "activation" of oxidizing agents such as air, steam, or oxygen, at high temperatures, the internal structure of the charcoal particle is further eroded creating an even greater surface area. One teaspoon of activated charcoal powder has about the same surface area as a football field. This enormous surface area, along with charcoal bonding properties, allows it to "absorb" large amounts of gases, poisons, toxins, and pollutants. Furthermore, charcoal has no knowm poisonous side effects! This is why charcoal is an EXCELLENT topical to adsorb the venom in the brown recluse spider bite (if applied as first aid). Within 24 hours of a Brown Recluse bite, a purplish-red blister develops at the site, and extensive tissue death occurs underneath the area. This produces a very deep and angry ulceration that may extend as far as down to the bone. The condition often lasts for weeks or months, and typically leaves a deep puckered scar. That is, if amputation or surgerydoes not become necessary. There is no antidote and no truly effective anti-venom. The anti-venom must be administered within 24hours, and in most cases it is only after 24 hours that the person realizes they are a victim of a recluse spider. So, in hopes of physically removing all of the poison, the treatment often resorted to is that of wide surgical excision - cutting away of any flesh containing venom. But there is safe and very effective natural remedy that has been used for centuries to treat poisonous bites including those of the recluse spider. It has been discovered that a very effective and easy treatment for brown recluse spider bite is an activated charcoal poultice or compress. At the first suspicion of a Brown Recluse Spider bite, start applying charcoal. As with the remedy, the sooner the better. Simply sprinkle some charcoal on the wound or, if larger, on a bandage, and place on the wound and wrap or bandage tight enough for the charcoal to stay in contact with the bite area. You can also mix the charcoal powder with enough water to make a "slurry" and then place that on the wound and cover. Do not mix with anything oil-based as it can decrease the efficacy of the charcoal. For the first eight hours, change the compress about every thirty minutes. On the second day, the time interval for changing the poultices or compresses can be lengthened to two hours, and then to four. You should keep this up for at least a week, maybe longer, until you no longer see evidence of inflammation from the bite area. You can treat this on your own, or purchase an Aunt Norma's Spider Kit (complete with charcoal poultice first aid packet) here: |
How to Treat a Brown Recluse Spider Bite Naturally at home
Posted on 1 March, 2015 at 17:25 |
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TREAT BROWN RECLUSE BITES WITH ACTIVATED CHARCOAL In the last post- I discussed the dangers of the Brown Recluse Spider, and their sudden prevalence in Southern California… in particular Brown Recluse Spiders in Huntington Beach. Aside from using Aunt Norma’s Go away! Spider Powder to get rid of an infestation and protect your house from the dangerous beasties, I wanted to also discuss an effective and safe “home remedy” to handle first aid and emergency treatment if, in fact, you are unlucky enough to get bitten. Aunt Norma’s Go Away! Spider Powder can be sprinkled anywhere you don’t want spiders. It not only repels spiders, but will kill any creepy crawly that comes into contact with it within 48 hours. As discussed in the previous conversation on Brown Recluse Spiders, their bite can be very dangerous and requires immediate medical attention- especially in the very young and very old. The bites are particularly dangerous because it kills the surrounding tissue and can spread indefinitely (as seen in the disgusting photo below...if you want to ruin your dinner, Google "Brown Recluse Spider Bite"...) I have personally known two people who have been bitten by the foreboding Brown Recluse, and they had very different experiences, based on how they first treated the bite. My one friend, let’s call him “Mike” (mainly b/c his name is Mike, haha) encountered a brown recluse spider while at work in an old house in Southern California. Not realizing he had been bitten, he did nothing and was confused as he began to feel ill and watched his leg swell to twice it’s normal size. Finally- after experiencing some nausea and dizziness, he thought perhaps he was having an allergic reaction to something and went to the ER. Long story shorter, he spent over a week in the hospital and had serious complications that left him with lifelong health issues and a really horrific scar. They basically had to use a drug so strong to treat the effects of the bite that it ruined his thyroid and he will take thyroid medicine for the rest of his life. The other friend was unpacking moving boxes in Virginia and saw the spider, was bitten, and took a photo of it and Googled it to see if he could figure out what type of spider it was. When he realized that he had, in fact, been bitten by the dangerous Brown Recluse, he wasn’t sure what to do, until his girlfriend told him the first thing they should do was to place a poultice of charcoal on the bite. (thank GOD for a resourceful girlfriend!) She intended for this to be an emergency first aid while they drove to the hospital, but they both quickly realized that the charcoal was immediately helping the bite and was bringing the swelling down. They decided to take a “wait and see” approach, and within a few hours knew that the charcoal was absorbing the toxins and they determined to skip the ER. Today, THIS friend has only a scar the size of a cigarette burn, and swears by the powers of charcoal! Now, you all know that I love a good ole’ natural home remedy…especially one that uses simple, inexpensive ingredients and has no side effects… so of course I’ve been using charcoal for years to treat everything from food poisoning to pimples. I’m happy to say that I’ve never had to treat a Brown Recluse spider bite, but I wanted to pass this remedy on for those of you who are dealing with this pest. First, let me tell you a little bit about charcoal and why/ how it works on toxins. Charcoal has a safety record that goes back 3500 years (compare that to the 10-30 year clinical trials of today’s most popular “designer” drugs…). The simplest concept of charcoal that comes to mind is the remains of wood burned after a campfire has gone out. This is basically dehydrated wood, but charcoal can come from a variety of sources such as animal bones, or coal, but for medicinal purposes it comes from plant-based sources such as hardwood, bamboo, coconut, or peat. But what is left after the fire goes out is pure carbon. What makes the structure of charcoal unique is it's physical structure of folds and cracks the hide a tremendous surface area, which can electrostatically bind a large amount of chemicals and toxins. By subjecting this raw charcoal to the "activation" of oxidizing agents such as air, steam, or oxygen, at high temperatures, the internal structure of the charcoal particle is further eroded creating an even greater surface area. One teaspoon of activated charcoal powder has about the same surface area as a football field. This enormous surface area, along with charcoal bonding properties, allows it to "absorb" large amounts of gases, poisons, toxins, and pollutants. Furthermore, charcoal has no knowm poisonous side effects! This is why charcoal is an EXCELLENT topical to adsorb the venom in the brown recluse spider bite (if applied as first aid). Within 24 hours of a Brown Recluse bite, a purplish-red blister develops at the site, and extensive tissue death occurs underneath the area. This produces a very deep and angry ulceration that may extend as far as down to the bone. The condition often lasts for weeks or months, and typically leaves a deep puckered scar. That is, if amputation or surgerydoes not become necessary. There is no antidote and no truly effective anti-venom. The anti-venom must be administered within 24hours, and in most cases it is only after 24 hours that the person realizes they are a victim of a recluse spider. So, in hopes of physically removing all of the poison, the treatment often resorted to is that of wide surgical excision - cutting away of any flesh containing venom. But there is safe and very effective natural remedy that has been used for centuries to treat poisonous bites including those of the recluse spider. It has been discovered that a very effective and easy treatment for brown recluse spider bite is an activated charcoal poultice or compress. At the first suspicion of a Brown Recluse Spider bite, start applying charcoal. As with the remedy, the sooner the better. Simply sprinkle some charcoal on the wound or, if larger, on a bandage, and place on the wound and wrap or bandage tight enough for the charcoal to stay in contact with the bite area. You can also mix the charcoal powder with enough water to make a "slurry" and then place that on the wound and cover. Do not mix with anything oil-based as it can decrease the efficacy of the charcoal. For the first eight hours, change the compress about every thirty minutes. On the second day, the time interval for changing the poultices or compresses can be lengthened to two hours, and then to four. You should keep this up for at least a week, maybe longer, until you no longer see evidence of inflammation from the bite area. You can treat this on your own, or purchase an Aunt Norma's Spider Kit (complete with charcoal poultice first aid packet) here: |
How to treat Brown Recluse Spider Bites Naturally
Posted on 1 March, 2015 at 17:22 |
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TREAT BROWN RECLUSE BITES WITH ACTIVATED CHARCOAL The
other friend was unpacking moving boxes in Virginia and saw the spider, was
bitten, and took a photo of it and Googled it to see if he could figure out
what type of spider it was. When he
realized that he had, in fact, been bitten by the dangerous Brown Recluse, he
wasn’t sure what to do, until his girlfriend told him the first thing they
should do was to place a poultice of charcoal on the bite. (thank GOD for a resourceful girlfriend!)
She intended for this to be an emergency first aid while they drove to
the hospital, but they both quickly realized that the charcoal was immediately
helping the bite and was bringing the swelling down. They decided to take a “wait and see”
approach, and within a few hours knew that the charcoal was absorbing the
toxins and they determined to skip the ER.
Today, THIS friend has only a scar the size of a cigarette burn, and swears by the powers of charcoal! Now,
you all know that I love a good ole’ natural home remedy…especially one that
uses simple, inexpensive ingredients and has no side effects… so of course I’ve
been using charcoal for years to treat everything from food poisoning to
pimples. I’m happy to say that I’ve
never had to treat a Brown Recluse spider bite, but I wanted to pass this remedy
on for those of you who are dealing
with this pest. First, let me tell you
a little bit about charcoal and why/ how it works on toxins. Charcoal has a safety record that goes back 3500 years
(compare that to the 10-30 year clinical trials of today’s most popular
“designer” drugs…). The simplest concept
of charcoal that comes to mind is the remains of wood burned after a campfire
has gone out. This is basically
dehydrated wood, but charcoal can come from a variety of sources such as animal bones, or coal, but for medicinal purposes it comes from plant-based sources such as hardwood, bamboo, coconut, or peat. But what is left after the fire goes out is pure carbon. What makes the structure of charcoal unique is it's physical structure of folds and cracks the hide a tremendous surface area, which can electrostatically bind a large amount of chemicals and toxins. By subjecting this raw charcoal to the "activation" of oxidizing agents such as air, steam, or oxygen, at high temperatures, the internal structure of the charcoal particle is further eroded creating an even greater surface area. One teaspoon of activated charcoal powder has about the same surface area as a football field. This enormous surface area, along with charcoal bonding properties, allows it to "absorb" large amounts of gases, poisons, toxins, and pollutants. Furthermore, charcoal has no knowm poisonous side effects! This is why charcoal is an EXCELLENT topical to adsorb the venom in the brown recluse spider bite (if applied as first aid). Within 24 hours of a Brown Recluse bite, a purplish-red blister develops at the site, and extensive tissue death occurs underneath the area. This produces a very deep and angry ulceration that may extend as far as down to the bone. The condition often lasts for weeks or months, and typically leaves a deep puckered scar. That is, if amputation or surgerydoes not become necessary. There is no antidote and no truly effective anti-venom. The anti-venom must be administered within 24hours, and in most cases it is only after 24 hours that the person realizes they are a victim of a recluse spider. So, in hopes of physically removing all of the poison, the treatment often resorted to is that of wide surgical excision - cutting away of any flesh containing venom. But there is safe and very effective natural remedy that has been used for centuries to treat poisonous bites including those of the recluse spider. You can treat this on your own, or purchase an Aunt Norma's Spider Kit (complete with charcoal poultice first aid packet) here: |
Get Rid of Moths with Aunt Norma's Pantry Moth Spray!
Posted on 27 February, 2015 at 18:16 |
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SO YOU HAVE PANTRY MOTHS If you are reading
this, it is likely because your kitchen and peace of mind have been invaded
with a tiny flying nemesis known as the Pantry Moth. By the time you have noticed them, chances
are they have already set up shop in your pantry and in your food. If you see one, there are plenty more that
you haven’t seen. The good news is that they aren’t poisonous
or disease-ridden. Gross as it is, if you
have accidentally eaten one, it won’t hurt you.
The bad news, however, is that they are notoriously difficult to get rid
of. SOME PANTRY MOTH FACTS Often
called the “flour moth”, the Indian- meal Moth is light brown in color and
usually about 8-10 mm in length. They
lay eggs and spin silky webs and cocoons where the worms or caterpillars, called
waxworms, spend some time until they hatch.
The moth larvae are off-white with brown heads. The entire life cycle of this species may
take 30 to 300 days. Female moths lay between 60 and 400 eggs on a food
surface, which are ordinarily smaller than 0.5 mm and not sticky. The eggs
hatch in 2 to 14 days. The larval stage lasts from 2 to 41 weeks, depending on the
temperature. They are more active in the summer. HOW THEY GOT IN The pantry moth is
actually very common. It is likely that
the eggs were already in something you bought and have stored long enough for
the eggs to mature. There is almost no
way to completely avoid buying grains and food products that contain them, but
obviously if you see the moths flying around your favorite grocery store, you
might want to shop someplace else for awhile.
Items you buy in the “bulk” section are a somewhat higher risk, and
organic foods are somewhat more likely to contain them as they are not usually
bleached and sprayed with chemicals. Pet
food and bird seed are often likely culprits as well. WHAT TO LOOK FOR The Indian-meal moth
larvae can infest a wide range of dry foodstuffs such as flour, cereal, bread,
pasta, rice, spices or dried fruits and nut.
Honestly, though, these things can literally worm their way into just
about anything. I have found them in such
strange places as in a Pepto Bismol bottle and at the bottom of drink mix
containers. They also can seemingly get
through glass and plastic containers, although often this is because the food
inside already contained eggs which later hatched. They really can crawl into even the tightest
surfaces, though, and any container with a screw top can allow them to crawl up
the ridges and into the food inside.
They can also eat through plastic bags and cardboard boxes. So once you have seen them, no food in your
pantry can be assumed safe. They only
need a miniscule spec or crumb of food to survive on. The worms also find
other non-food sources for which to spin their cocoon to pupate (ew!), like in
corners, crevices in the wood, or the underside of canned goods and the inside
of container lids. Look for not only the
adult moth, but also any silky webbing, food particles clumped together, or
little “dust balls” waiting to hatch. Once
they start reproducing, they can travel to other areas of the home and start
the process all over again. STEPS TO GET RID OF THEM Now
that you are thoroughly disgusted and understand the enemy, it’s time to get
started. There is a lot of work to do,
and sadly, there’s no shortcut. This is
war. You need to begin by removing every
item from your pantry. You will be
tempted to avoid this step, but it is crucial.
Next, throw out pretty much everything.
If you can’t bring yourself to toss hundreds of dollars of food into the
trash, there are some alternatives, but be warned, it might not get rid of the
problem and you could end up having to toss everything a few weeks later
anyways.
First,
you can transfer any items that don’t seem affected into the freezer. None of the stages of the organism (eggs,
larvae, adults) is very temperature-tolerant and all can be killed by a week of
freezing or by brief heating in a microwave or conventional oven when such
treatment is practical. Just make sure
that your freezer is set to its coldest temperature or the little buggers will
merely hibernate. Next, if you want to
keep some items like canned goods and spices, you must inspect each one and then wash
them in hot soapy water. Check
everything, like inside the spice bottle lids and behind the canned good
labels. Do this for every single thing that will be
returning to your cupboard. Nothing is safe.
Check baskets, shelf liners, cookbooks and recipe boxes. Trust me, you only want to do this once, so
do it right. Now you need to clean
the pantry like you have never cleaned before.
Cancel your plans for the rest of the weekend. Remove any loose shelf liner, and wash down
ALL surfaces with hot soapy water or Aunt Norma’s Pantry Moth Spray. The benefit of using the spray is that you
can do two steps in one and the results will last longer. The spray contains soaping agents as well as
essential oils and other moth and insect repellents that will not only kill the
eggs and larvae but deter the adult moths from returning to lay more eggs and
start the whole process over again. If using the spray,
make sure to liberally coat all areas.
Use the far-reaching trigger to get into areas like door hinges (a
favorite place for moths to cocoon), ceilings, holes, corners and spaces or
gaps where the panels don’t completely meet.
It is best to wear gloves and a mask for this. Keep a sponge and a bucket of hot water
nearby, and wash down all surfaces.
Allow to dry before returning any food to the pantry. At this stage, hopefully you have killed all
the existing eggs and larvae, but you are probably going to still see some
adult moths flying around over thenext few days to weeks. They bugged out when the cleaning started or
were hiding in another part of the home. They won’t want to return to the pantry. After all, there’s no food for them anymore
and they HATE the smell that the spray has left behind, but they are
desperately looking for a place to mate and lay eggs. Collect your family
members and anyone living in the house and instruct them to hunt and kill any
adult moths they see. If you have issues
about bug-killing or karma, you’re going to need to get over it…quickly. You have a small window of opportunity to
kill these remaining menaces or you will be back to square one before you know
it. If you need some motivation, keep in
mind that these creatures are not
nice. They are actually carnivorous and
will even eat each other. They also will
try to attack you when you are swatting them.
Don’t be fooled, they are not
cute and they are not your
friends. You can
also discourage re-infestation by leaving Pantry Moth essential oil diffusers
in the corners of your cabinet or by frequently touching up with the
spray. The moths hate this stuff. Keep
all foods in airtight, preferably glass, containers, and store whatever you can
in the freezer. You can set out some
Pantry Moth Traps to kill any adults that you either missed or any that have
hatched since you cleaned. This is a
pheromone trap that lures the males and can be a good alternative to spending
all of your free time moth-hunting. Good
luck! |
How to Get Rid of Pantry Moths
Posted on 27 February, 2015 at 18:10 |
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Question: Hi- can you tell me if the Pantry Moth Spray Kills Pantry moth eggs and larvae as well as the adult moths? And also, how do you use it/ how does it work? thnx Aunt Norma: Yes, it will kill any larvae and
eggs that it comes into contact with. The problem with this, though, is
that because even one female moth can lay up to 300 microscopic
eggs per day, it is practically impossible to get all the eggs. The
way to deal with this is through a system that I have developed that gets rid
of the pantry moth infestation permanently by interrupting their breeding
practices and keeping them away from any source of food. This is best
accomplished in the following steps: 1). Clean out the cabinets and
any areas where food, bird seed, or pet food is stored. 2). Spray Aunt Norma's Pantry
moth spray to cover all areas. Leave the cabinet doors open overnight or
long enough to dry. 3). Place any food that will
be returning to the cupboard into glass airtight containers, and/ or place
anything that you can in the freezer. You want to keep any moths that
will hatch in a week or so (from eggs that were not killed by the spray) from
getting back into any food. The scent of the spray deters any hatched
adult moths from returning to the areas where the scent still lingers.
This is why is works in two ways: to kill the eggs/ larvae and adult
moths, and to also repel moths from returning to the food and starting the
whole cycle all over again. 4). I always recommend that my
customers also use a pantry moth trap. I sell them online (you can
purchase the spray and the trap in a "Pantry Moth Kit") or you can
simply pick up a trap at any major home and hardware store (like Home
Depot). The trap lures and kills adult males so that the breeding cycle
will be interrupted. This way, as you can see, the moth
infestation doesn't stand a chance. The other methods don't work because
they only deal with the CURRENT moths, and ignore the potential for missed eggs
(which can honestly be anywhere in the home... I once found some moth larvae
behind the glass of a picture frame in my living room!!). The
"second round hatching" is a common reason for what is perceived
as a re-infestation, when in fact is is still part of the original
infestation that wasn't dealt with properly. Aunt Norma'ssystem deals with the infestation in a more holistic way that ensures that
your moths will be gone for good. I hope this helps. Please let
me know if you have any more questions or if I can be of further assistance in
any way. |
How to Get Rid of Brown Recluse Spiders NATUTRALLY in Huntington Beach
Posted on 23 January, 2015 at 23:41 |
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OK, first I will start by giving you some information on this type of Spider. Honestly, though- I'm just giving you an overview, because researching this creature is giving me the heebie-jeebies. I'm not exactly arachnophobic, but I HATE spiders! I know that they are good for us, and that they help control the insect population, blah blah blah... but I can't stand them. I read a fact once that stated that at any given time, we are never more than three feet away from a spider. This tidbit of trivia keeps me awake at night. Listen Carefully: I don't know what kind of person wrote that advice, but I'm telling you that anyone close enough to count a spider's eyes and check for fur on it's belly is probably going to then either eat it or try to commune with it telepathically, because they are clearly insane. Besides, what are you going to do if you determine that the spider is NOT a brown recluse... shake hands with it and invite it to dinner??!! I generally believe that most people, like myself, squash or run away from spiders first, and ask questions later. I will post one and only one picture here to help you identify the Brown Recluse, but the rest you can look up on your own- spending a Friday night trying to find non-copyritten pictures of giant evil spiders online is NOT my preferred way to pass time. I am usually creeped-out beyond recovery by the second page. (Ditto for what the bite looks like... Google at your own risk...some things you cannot unsee). So, now lets discuss where they hide. As the name implies, these are not the most social of spiders. The want to be left the #@!! alone! They hide all over the place, which is unfortunate. They like dark enclosed spaces, and are known to frequent shoes, dressers, behind pictures, underneath beds, in cardboard boxes, attics, closets... you get the idea. They also like woodpiles and rotting bark a lot, so they can be encountered inside or out. As they are nocturnal, artificial lights frok people attract them because of the way insects congregate around the lights at night. They can sometimes get stuck in sinks or bathtubs, because of the smooth surface. So take a look at the tub or shower floor before stepping in. SUPPOSEDLY, these spiders have no interest in feeding on humans, and only bite if they are attacked or disturbed. I'm not sure I entirely believe this about spiders in general, as I am quite certain that I have been CHASED by a spider before. The Brown Recluse Spider's web is strictly for nesting, and is not intended to trap prey. The female spider lays between 40-5o eggs and can keep 'em coming. The webs are weird looking and not typical, and the eggs are maybe the grossest thing I've ever seen. (Why do I keep Googling this stuff?!) They are giant white balls which apparently contain tiny little baby spiderlings waiting to hatch and live in your home... YUCK!!! The bite can be very dangerous, and is one of only 2 types of potentially fatal spiders bites in the US. Some people, although likely to end up with an awful scar, will be OK on their own in a few days, whilst for others especially children and the elderly, the bite is life-threatening. The bites kill the surrounding skin, and they are truly hideous to behold. It looks like flesh-eating disease: an open, ulcerous DEEP wound that keeps eating/ killing the flesh around it. Sometimes surgery is required to extract the necrotic (dead) tissue (as happened to my friend, Michael). The brown recluse spiders' venom is so poisonous that it is used to kill other insects. If bitten, you aren't likely to notice right at first, but soon it begins to become evident after a few hours with a host of symptoms. Everyone reacts to a different degree, though most victims show at least some signs of being poisoned. The site of the bite will begin to resonate deep pain and show redness, inflammation and often extreme swelling. The secondary, more serious symptoms include fever, nausea, diarrhea, and disorientation. This spider is no joke. HOW TO GET RID OF AND PREVENT BROWN RECLUSE SPIDERS NATURALLY: Look for the next post about how to treat a Brown Recluse Spider bite naturally! |
How to Get Rid of Pantry Moths Naturally
Posted on 23 January, 2015 at 13:04 |
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Sounds like you are
doing great, Tracy. Yes, I think that the items you have stored outside
(as long as the temperature reaches freezing at least 3-5 consecutive days)
should be OK... there IS a possibility that the eggs will go into a type of "hibernation",
which sometimes happens in the colder weather, but hopefully the freezing
temperatures will kill any hidden eggs. Which brings me to another
point: You have likely gotten rid of all the adult moths INSIDE the
house, and many of the worms and eggs, but be prepared for at least one final
round of flying adult moths to hatch before this is said and done. As you will see in the
literature online and in the instructions, the way that this system works is by
interrupting their breeding/ feeding/ mating, i.e., "LIFE"
cycle. This process takes at least 4 weeks, as it takes about 4 weeks for a moth
to hatch, pupate, and turn into adult moths. so even just a few missed eggs (which there are guaranteed to be some, as they are
microscopic in size and can literally be anywhere...) can technically start the
whole cycle all over again. This is why people have such a hard time
getting rid of these pests, and why traditional treatments don't work.
The important thing is to maintain an unwelcome environment for the moths
during that entire initial
month after you have killed the first round of adults. This is accomplished by: 1). Keeping the
moths from laying eggs in or near the food (by storage methods
and by keeping the scent of Aunt Norma's Pantry Moth Spray fresh near food
storage areas, which acts as a strong moth repellent). 2). Preventing the
moths from Mating(with use of a pheromone Pantry Moth Trap, which lures
and kills the males). 3). Preventing any
hatched larva from feeding(again by proper food storage and
cleaning so that the worms/ larvae- which is the only stage that
feeds- cannot have access to any food source). Thank you for
your interest in Aunt Norma's. -Aunt Norma www.AuntNormas.com |
How to Get Rid Of Bugs & Insects Naturally
Posted on 17 December, 2014 at 23:54 |
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Aunt Norma’s™ How to get Rid of Bugs and Insects Naturally with Kills & Repels kitchen pests
including ants, flies, cockroaches, spiders, silverfish, centipedes &
earwigs
Directions:
Shake well before each use.
Remove food & containers from areas.
Liberally spray on non-food surfaces.
Allow to dry before replacing items.
Touch up by lightly misting in areas prone to pests to keep the scent fresh
enough to repel bugs. Best used in
conjunction with Aunt
Norma’s™ non-toxic Go away! Bug Powder. Caution: Keep out of reach of
children. Avoid contact with skin &
eyes; do not drink. Use care with essential oils & pets: do not use around birds,
rodents, or exotic pets. Do not spray
directly on pets or pet food. In the event of an accidental overdose,
contact a healthcare professional immediately.
Aunt
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How to Get Rid of & Kill Pantry or Indian meal moths
Posted on 17 December, 2014 at 23:27 |
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HOW TO GET RID OF PANTRY MOTHS Now that you are thoroughly disgusted and understand the
enemy, it’s time to get started. There
is a lot of work to do, and sadly, there is no shortcut. This is war.
You need to begin by removing every item from your pantry. You will be tempted to avoid this step, but
it is crucial. Next, throw out pretty
much everything. If you can’t bring
yourself to toss hundreds of dollars of food into the trash, there are some
alternatives, but be warned, it might not get rid of the problem and you could
end up having to toss everything a few weeks later anyways. FIRST, you can transfer any items that don’t seem affected
into the freezer. None of the stages of
the organism (eggs, larvae, adults) is very temperature-tolerant and all can be
killed by a week of freezing or by brief heating in a microwave or conventional
oven when such treatment is practical.
Just make sure that your freezer is set to its coldest setting or the
little buggers will merely hibernate. ELIMINATE THE SOURCE
NOW you need to clean the
pantry like you’ve never cleaned before.
Cancel your plans for the rest of the weekend. Remove any loose shelf liner, and wash down
all surfaces with hot soapy water. Next,
Spray Aunt Norma’s liberally on all surfaces (and under shelves, in corners,
etc.) Use the far-reaching sprayer to
get into areas like door hinges (a favorite place for moths to cocoon),
ceilings, holes, corners and spaces or gaps where the panels don’t completely
meet. It is best to wear gloves and a
mask for this step. The spray contains
non-toxic ingredients as well as essential oils and other insect repellents
that not only kill the eggs and larvae but deter the adult moths from returning
to lay more eggs and start the process over again. You can wipe the areas lightly with a damp
sponge to spread out the formula, or to absorb some if you went nuts with the
spray and your pantry is dripping. Allow to dry before returning any food to the
pantry. SEARCH AND DESTROY meal moths, get rid of pantry moths, moths in the
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Categories
- Get rid of pantry moths! (15)
- Natural Insect Repellent & Organic Insecticide (1)
- How To get Rid of Moths (4)
- Kill & Get Rid of Spiders Naturally (1)
- the difference between pantry moths and clothes moths (1)
- Organic Pesticides and NAtural Insect Repellents (1)
- Health & Home advice (4)
- Pantry moth spray and pets (2)
- Pantry Moths (7)
- pantry moths and worms in food (4)
- Get Rid of Brown Recluse Spiders (4)
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